I just got back from my first trip to the Red in 3 years! Some stuff has changed since then. There’s a new guidebook and Miguel’s has more than one bathroom. One thing remains constant, if you are looking for the best high friction single pitch sandstone climbing ANYWHERE, head no further than the Red River Gorge, Kentucky.
This was a crazy weekend. I don’t know if it was the heat (Saturday) or rain (Monday) but there was hardly anybody there – on a holiday weekend. Or maybe nobody does trad anymore?? In fact, at the trad crags we hit we were alone almost the whole time. This trip ended up being about quality, not quantity. I basically spent the entire trip leading 5.9 trad. All 4 and 5 star climbs, no waiting in lines!
Other areas we visited were Long Wall, Dip Wall, and Fortress.